Frequently Asked Questions

Vaporizer usage & technique

How does it work?

It's easy -- simply grind your clean herbal material to a fine consistency using a regular grinder. Slide the lid to one side and sprinkle your material into the bowl. Close the lid, firmly press a freshly charged battery into the Box, and start enjoying your vapor. After each draw, withdraw the battery, and shake the Box to stir the material inside -- this ensures that the Box is always fresh and ready when you need it. Repeat as needed.

The stored electrical energy in the battery is carried to a heating element in the bowl of the Box which gently warms your herbals. The Box provides just enough heat to release the active ingredients as a vapor without causing combustion to occur.

Vaporization (avoiding combustion) is good for a number of reasons:

  • More medicinal qualities are available because they are not being consumed by fire -- vaporization is more efficient.
  • There are little to no harmful combustion byproducts (NO tar, carbon/nitrogen monoxides, free radicals, particulates/soot, etc.).
  • Vaporization is overall much healthier for you and a LOT easier on the lungs -- no more unnecessary coughing.
  • The fine qualities and taste of your herbals are fully available without being obscured by the noxious byproducts of burning.

How do I ensure even vaporization?

The most common complaint from a new user is that it does not cook evenly. The degree of evenness is primarily a result of these factors:

  • The fineness of the grind.
  • The degree of load mixing, via stirring, tumbling, or shaking.
  • The volume of the load.
  • The average length of time in any given heating cycle (or draw).

The importance of grinding finely cannot be overstressed. To achieve optimal evenness: grind fine, load less, heat longer (but don't wait for the battery!), and mix/shake often and thoroughly. Under these conditions the Box can deliver very even and complete extractions. Almost every user who reports uneven heating learns to correct the problem with proper grinding and technique.

Do I need to grind?

YES!

It is important to have the material finely ground for best results. Not grinding finely enough is a classic LB rookie mistake.

Your ground material should at least pass without pressure/force through the mesh of a common window screen. If it is this fine or finer, then that is a good start. Magic-Flight's standard "calibration test load" has an average "grain size" of 30 thousandths of an inch -- it's fairly fine, but not powder or kief. That would be a 200 Mesh filter, or approximately 75 microns particulate. Perhaps similar to an average grain of table salt and a little more. Clean picked material is processed using a conventional grinder and then reprocessed using an electric grinder before grading -- this provides a consistent standard to test with. Most users would not need to go through this much effort.

Start with dry clean herb (no stems or seeds) and use a good grinder. There are as many opinions about grinders as there are about vaporizers. In general, however, it's agreed that a two-piece yields finer grind than a four-piece. This is because the herb stays in the grinding area in a two-piece but falls through to a collecting chamber in a four-piece. The suggested method to get finer grind from a four-piece is to invert it for a few turns. This can be messy if you're using the kief catcher.

Electric ones work especially well, particularly on dry material; however, it is easy to overgrind and some electrics can be difficult to keep clean -- or more importantly to some, it can be hard to get back everything that went into one.

If your load isn't ground finely enough, it won't heat evenly and your vapor yield is reduced. Many users remove the load after a couple of draws, when the material is thoroughly dry, and crumble it with their fingers before re-loading. This exposes more area to vaporization and helps ensure even heating.

If in doubt, or concerned especially with efficiency, using smaller amounts can be helpful in some situations.

How much is a "trench"?

Each filling will take approximately 50 to 100 milligrams of material.

If I put less than a full trench will it still work well?

Yes -- it should work fine; however, Magic-Flight recommends that people load it with unpacked material (finely ground but not powder) until it is level with the shoulder (i.e. do not fill the chamber) even though this might be more than you would normally need. The instant-on and instant-off heating means that you can control the dosage via the heat and draw time. Remove the battery when you are done taking a draw and the rest of the un-vaped material can simply wait to be cooked later (even hours later). Vapor is only produced when you want it -- no heat latency means no wasted vapors. This is very different than most other vape units which must cook the entire load to completion once they have been started.

What's the smallest load that will work?

The Box will vape any amount less than a full trench without any problem. You could put 1/100 of a trench in if that is what you wanted -- and you would get at least 3/100ths vapor from it (and probably a lot more, compared to smoking). If you wanted to vaporize only/exactly one tiny speck -- a single grain -- of material, the Box is one of a very few vapes on the market (short of lab gear) that has any hope of doing this. The only disadvantage is that nearly the same amount of battery power is consumed regardless of the load size.

By filling the recommended amount, do we get better vapor or avoid possible damage to the unit?

Neither -- it is simply more convenient and more efficient that way. By filling, you will be getting more overall vapor per charged battery. The battery will provide the same heat regardless if it is loaded or empty. Therefore, any part of the unit which is hot but not loaded is wasted heat (wasted battery charge). You might as well load it fully and get the full benefit of the battery energy. Also, by under filling, the vapor density (the ratio of vapor to air) will be somewhat less than that identified as optimal by Magic-Flight's research.

Since it can be arranged that the Box is only hot when you are actually drawing from it, you get the benefit of having the vapor dispensed only when you want it. When not heating, you might as well think of the Box as "storing" a very small amount of material. Because the Box is able to heat up nearly instantly (no waiting) it is convenient to use. Because the Box is also able to cool off again nearly instantly, it does not waste any vapor either -- this is one of the things that makes this vaporizer efficient.

What is the method of heat control?

The user manages the temperature with breath control. This tends to be a far more practical, responsive, and reliable "feedback circuit" than anything that could be built digitally -- especially when different users have different needs. It tends to get around the parallel problems of "is it set right?" and "one setting for everyone" somewhat automatically.

Our recommendation is to ensure that the lips are placed a little above and below the draw hole and to receive the vapor in whole form into the open cavity of the mouth. If the temp/taste seems high, draw a little faster (has a cooling effect), or alternately, stop the heating and start over. It is best to leave a little bit of lung capacity to draw the remaining vapor fully into the lungs before releasing. A long steady draw is optimal. The steady state method is more vapor efficient and more accurately reflects the design method-of-usage intentions of the Box.

The battery is left in for the duration of the draw, or if taking multiple draws, for as long as the load lasts. You must remember to retract, remove, or invert the battery when you are finished taking draws off the Box. Like with the wind, faster tends to mean cooler. To get higher temperatures in the load, you need to draw very slowly. If drawing directly from the Box (i.e., using the Box in the "native mode"), you will also be able to sense the temperature of the vapor stream as well as the taste (this is the recommended practice).

For best taste, it is important to tap or shake (stir) the load frequently.

What is "native mode" and why would I use it?

Native mode means drawing from the Box without using an attachment such as a whip or tube. This is the intended usage mode for which the Box was originally designed/optimized. Anything that is provided as an attachment is due to user choice, not because it is necessary. In fact, using the Box in its native mode has the specific advantages of 1) increased efficiency (since there is no condensation effect, there is no wasted/lost vapor), and 2) greater accuracy/sensitivity (since the temp/taste feedback is not muted by distance). Magic-Flight strongly suggests that people at least try to use the Box native as this will provide a much more satisfying experience overall.

A minor design point with the Box is that it can be used in native mode while lying down flat on your back. The draw hole is positioned near the bottom edge of the Box allowing for one to hold the Box overhand (if you are right handed) and still be able to draw from the Box while keeping it level to the floor. Your lower lip would be on the bottom face of the Box and the upper lip is just above the draw hole. This makes using the Box accessible to people who are in a bed and cannot raise their head up.

How will I know if the Box is working properly?

First, note that you should get two basic outcomes regardless of the technique you use: color change, and taste change. If neither of these occur, then either the technique is wrong or the device is not working correctly. For example, as a first test, without any drawing at all, it should be possible to turn one full load completely brown or even black on a single charged battery. If not, then something is wrong -- check the battery, charger, and that the Box is producing heat. If these tests fail, then it is probably a warranty issue and Magic-Flight will re-issue whatever is necessary to fix it. Otherwise, once you are satisfied your Box passes the basic test, it is a question of technique (or possibly the quality of the loaded materials).

What is the recommended technique for using the Box?

Start by looking into the draw hole or draw tube just after you put in the battery. When you press the battery into the Box, you should see a light. Wait until you can also see vapor appear, usually within a few seconds. At this point begin your draw, using the temperature/taste of the vapor itself as a guide how fast to draw. Faster drawing means cooler temperatures and slower drawing means hotter temperatures; however, please be aware that under normal operating conditions, it is unlikely that you will be able to draw so slowly as to cause the taste to resemble that of smoking (this is by design).

Note that if you begin your draw too soon, you can easily cool down the screen too quickly and you will get little or no vapor. If you wait too long, however, you will overheat and probably wind up with an unevenly cooked load.

Whatever rate of draw you choose, continue until you can hold no more and then while holding your breath, shake the Box so as to tumble the loaded materials. You only need to shake or tap the Box enough to ensure that the load comes free and there is an even mixing of the loaded materials in the bottom of the groove (or "trench"). Breathe out while settling the materials in the trench again. (A gentle side to side motion is usually enough for this, but the Box construction is robust so you can shake it as hard as you like.) Look into down the draw hole to check for vapor again, and begin your next slow draw. Repeat this cycle until the taste has changed significantly and/or the color of the load has changed significantly. When you are finished, remove the battery.

Again, if the load has noticeably changed color, then it is certain that vapor has been produced (and hopefully been inhaled). Otherwise, please check that the battery is charged and that the Box is heating sufficiently. You should have no trouble completely cooking a single load with a single battery.

What is the 'micro-hitting' or 'micro-toking' technique?

Micro-hitting is taking a series of quick short puffs with pauses between them but without exhaling, all on a single battery connection. This method is capable of producing a thicker cloud, which is sought after by many users. Keep in mind that thicker clouds are hotter and harsher, and could cause coughing.

Is it better to take many smaller draws, or is it better to hold draws longer?

It depends as much on how deeply you inhale as it does on how long you hold it in. Filling ones lungs fully, drawing deeply all of the way in so as to get the vapor all of the way into the lower lungs is far more practical than holding a smaller volume of vapor only in the upper lungs and throat for any amount of time. The throat and the larger upper channels of the lungs are very poor absorbers -- the real work is done in the deeper passages of the lungs. To truly take a draw, you must fully receive it into yourself.

With our breath there are three factors we can control:

  • 1. How fast.
  • 2. How deep.
  • 3. How long.



For example, to get more oxygen, the body has a natural response -- the yawn -- which specifically is a deeper breath, not a faster one or one "held in" longer. To adsorb even more oxygen (hyperventilate), the key is to breathe both more quickly and more deeply, with the deep depth being the more important factor (note: you can breathe fast and shallow without any effect). The factors that increase the ability of the lungs to adsorb vapors are exactly the same as those needed to improve oxygen adsorption. Molecule size, kind, mass, etc., makes absolutely no difference to this proportionality.

There are certain psycho-physiological effects also. With a water pipe, the wide shape of the mouthpiece naturally encourages the user to take deeper draws farther into the lungs (the mouth is open in the same manner as with a yawn). Drawing on a narrow tube, the user has to specifically and mentally overcome the body's natural tendency to take only a short breath (as in "sipping") -- one that fills only the throat, and hence will be very poorly adsorbed. To get the same effect out of the Box as with a water pipe, users should take long slow deeply drawn draws. The slowness is for the Box heating characteristics -- the longness is so that the user takes a deep draw, fully into the deep passages of the lungs, so as to get full value for their effort.

Magic-Flight recommends that Box users first learn how to control the temp in the Box by controlling their draw rate, and then work to take fewer, much longer and deeper draws. With practice, you will find that filling the lungs thoroughly and completely in one draw is far more powerful and effective than taking the same exact volume of vapor in multiple smaller draws. Depending on your lung capacity, with most Boxes a good draw will last 15 to 25 seconds. However, be sure to have completely mastered temp control before attempting to increase your draw time -- otherwise you will find yourself coughing.

The reports reviewed by Magic-Flight indicate that 95% of whatever is going to be adsorbed will have done so within the first 2 seconds of actual vapor contact with the bronchial passages. This means that the clock starts only at the moment one has completely filled their lungs, and not before. It is also important to recognize that this does not mean that everything that is in a single breath is going to be adsorbed, no matter how long you hold it -- it only states that most of whatever is going to happen will do so in the first 2 seconds. Vapor that is held in the throat and in the larger lung passages will not really be adsorbed into the body no matter how long you wait (wrong kind of tissue) -- and exhaling these into a bag for someone else to use will allow them to get some also.

As such, really sophisticated drawing technique (optimal adsorption efficiency) with the Box involves several stages:

  • 1. You take a few full extra deep breaths at a normal rate to pre-charge your body with extra oxygen and to get a good sense of your available lung capacity.
  • 2. The battery is put fully in and heating starts. The temperature begins climbing quickly in the Box. You watch for vapor by looking straight down the Box vapor channel (down the draw hole -- NOTE: Be sure to hold the Box horizontally throughout this process so that the material in the tray does not all fall down to one end of the screen -- this leads to uneven heating and poor taste).
  • 3. Two or three seconds later, the temperature in the Box is about right and the you begin drawing at first slowly, and then only a little faster, adjusting your draw rate depending on the sensed temperature and taste. For maximum sensitivity, using the Box in its native configuration is ideal.
  • 4. The long slow draw continues until you begin to sense that you have reached about 80% or so of your lung capacity (perhaps 15 seconds later), at which point you pull the battery back slightly to stop the heating. You continue your draw at a somewhat faster rate so as to capture all of the remaining vapor still being formed in the Box and to assist it in cooling off.
  • 5. Four or five seconds later, the Box is cool and no longer producing vapor. At this point you continue to breathe the rest of the way in, filling your lungs completely and ensuring that all of the remaining vapor (the "vapor tail") is moved from your throat into your deep lungs where it will do some good.
  • 6. You hold your breath, lungs completely full, for about two seconds and then you breathe out naturally through your nose. This allows you to savor any remaining flavor and to know exactly how much of a draw you have just taken. You can breathe normally again.
  • 7. You shake the Box, noticing and ensuring an even mixing. Turning the Box upside down, tapping sharply, and shaking side to side (with the Box still upside down) is usually sufficient to ensure that all material is released from the screen and that larger chunks are broken up. Righting the Box again, you shake side to side again to settle the material in the tray.
  • 8. Take note of the color of the material in the Box. If it is green, go back to step 1 and take a few more deep breaths.



A lot of attention is paid to the inherent efficiency of the vaporizers used. For optimal results, however, equal attention needs to be paid to the inherent efficiency of the user technique. Good user technique can sometimes make even a poorly designed vaporizer work well, and with a moderately good vaporizer, can really make it zing!

The technique outlined above specifically for the Box has a number of advantages. For one thing, because no vapor is ever emitted directly from the Box to the air, the level of smell associated with the device remains at a true minimum. Also, because nearly all of the vapor is deeply adsorbed into the body, the user does not emit much smell either. Because the battery is only being used whole producing vapor, the effective usefulness of a battery charge is significantly extended also (energy efficiency). Also, the deep breath in the beginning (step 1) ensures that you have enough oxygen in your body so that the whole process feels more natural.

Finally, in regards to visibility, if you see anything on the exhale associated with step 6 above, it is very likely that you are running the Box too hot and that you need to be drawing slightly faster during steps 3 and 4. Whatever you see is going to be either 1) condensing vapor (very light and milky) which is now no longer accessible (wasted medicine) or 2) particulate matter (smoke) which is unnecessary and bad for your health. If it is only vapor that you see on exhale, you need to judge your lung capacity lower in step 4 and ensure that you leave enough time for the Box to cool and enough remaining breath for you to fully capture the vapor tail in your deep lungs. If it is smoke that you see, you need to be drawing faster or sooner -- don't wait as long to start drawing in step 3 and practice your breath and rate control until you can ensure that you can maintain an even taste.

Also, under no circumstances should the battery ever be in the Box when no one is drawing on it for more than about 3 seconds -- something to be aware of if you are ever in a group and passing the Box. A lot of people pass a Box when it is "on" to a new user and then explain how to use it -- all the while the Box is overheating the herb and when the new user does finally take a taste, it is way too hot and harsh. A much better approach is to show how to put the battery in, hand the Box over without the battery completely in and explain that a long slow draw is required. Let the new user push the battery in and take their draw -- as soon as it's done, take the Box back from them and withdraw the battery, showing them that it is necessary to do so. Ensure that each person in a group applies and withdraws the battery individually BEFORE letting them pass the Box around hot.

When you take a long slow draw, do you get constant vapor supply or is it more "airy"?

Done properly, you get a constant vapor supply. The draw rate needs to be slow for this -- think of sipping from a teacup. If you pull too fast, it will get more airy -- your taste will be an immediate feedback and a good guide.

What is pyronym's technique? Does it really deliver thick cloudy draws?

Pyronym is a member of FC who posted a no-draw technique that gives thicker and cloudier vapor because it results in minimum airflow over the load. In his post, pyronym said, "I have now perfected my Launch Box technique. I am now getting crazy thick draws like I get with my zap and my surfer." His method is:

  • 1 Grind up herb as fine as possible with grinder.
  • 2 Load trench so it is filled slightly higher than the top of the trench.
  • 3 Insert battery and exhale fully.
  • 4 Place your mouth on the Box without the stem, being careful not to have your tongue or teeth in the vapor path.
  • 5 Breathe in through your nose slowly as though you are taking a normal breath.
  • 6 Inhale until your lungs feel full or you start choking on the vapor.
  • 7 Hold breath.
  • 8 Optional: Breathe vapor out through your nose.



He added, "After my first 2 draws are cleared I remove the herb from the trench and grind it between my fingertips almost to a powder consistency."

This technique works because when you draw air into your lungs through your nose with your mouth open, a slight vacuum effect results in enough airflow to draw the vapor from the LB and mix with the air flowing into the lungs. This is the slowest possible draw, so the load gets heated to high temperatures, and this is why you get a thick draw.

Successful variations to consider, as reported by other FC members:

  • Less load in the trench.
  • Use the stem.
  • Inhale to 80% lung capacity; finish with clean air to draw the vapor deeper into the lungs.



Cautions:

  • The draws are thicker because the load is heating with almost no airflow. In particular, a fully charged battery can heat the load to scorching and even combustion if the draw takes too long.
  • Until you gain experience, it can be difficult to judge how much vapor you've received. It is better to start with short draws and increase the length as you become familiar with the technique.



When I inhale quickly enough to swirl the material in the trench, is the unit still producing vapor?

Usually, the inhale rate needs to be fairly slow, and the swirl only happens when drawing fast. If the material is swirling in the chamber, the draw rate is probably too fast for much vapor production. However, for an especially light and fluffy load and for an especially hot unit, you might get some vapor when a swirl pattern is showing. Vapor while swirling would not be common nor desired, however, as the vape would be especially hard to use -- the draw rate would have to be perfect every time. The other heating method the Box takes special advantage of is IR (infra-red). The air in the chamber is not heated as much with this technique.

Is it OK to draw hard/shake/draw hard/shake/draw hard/shake... until a trench is basically done without removing the battery?

Yes, it is OK to do this, as long as you perform these steps in immediate sequence. This is a technique that anyone can use once they have become fairly familiar with the performance characteristics of the Box, etc. The fast cycling method is an alternative for using the Box, but requires that the person be fairly accurate in their timing, else they will either get too little vapor or significantly changed taste.

Why do I have to remove the battery after each draw?

You don't have to remove the battery completely, but you must be sure to break the contact. If you have the pushback ring installed then all you have to do is stop pressing on the battery.

Having the battery get too hot can potentially damage the battery if it happens too often. The "damage", if it occurs, will show up in a reduction in the number possible charge cycles. Perhaps after a bad overheating (fully charged to nothing in one 5 minute stroke) a battery instead of lasting 500 recharges, it will only take 400. Magic-Flight says "60 seconds" because they know and are certain that that is "soon enough" to be sure to have no problems. Performance in a battery decreases in proportion to its abuse.

You can probably get away with longer than 60 seconds if you are paying attention by checking the battery warmth, but that isn't recommended. If you use the same battery without even a moment's break for more than 2 solid minutes, it can also get too hot to touch comfortably. One answer is to use two batteries in alternation, if you want continuous Box heating (about 10 minutes worth).

Also, to put this into perspective, note that these concerns apply to all NiMH type batteries, not just the stock ones. Energy is energy -- all of it carries some risk, regardless of form. For example, butane lighters can explode if thrown in a fire. Similar problems apply to Li batteries. To be safe, Magic-Flight ships battery cases with all outgoing stock. Respect the batteries by always putting them in their case when not in active use. That will ensure that they last a long time and never cause any trouble.

Why do I cough when I use the draw tube but not when I use "native mode"?

The narrower diameter of the draw tube increases the velocity of the vapor stream and "organizes" it so that it moves farther as a single straight column once it exits (within the confines of the mouth). This basically means that warm vapor is more likely to arrive at the back of the mouth, causing coughing -- not good! Using the Box native provides for a larger draw hole (lower stream velocity) and because its "effective length" is very short, the vapor stream is less organized -- both effects place the vapor closer to the front of the mouth, which for various neurological reasons, mean less coughing (or none at all). It is a specific and very carefully thought out part of the Box design to ensure that the vapor channel is as short and as likely to place the vapor closer to the front of the mouth as possible -- where most of the users sensory capacities are.

Overall, the goal of the channel is to provide the maximum and most easy/natural user feedback and the maximum vapor (i.e., little to no vapor condensation in the channel). One of the disadvantages of using any sort of draw stem at all is that it removes the user from directly sensing the vapor temperature and it provides a place for the vapor to condense. Condensation is bad -- it means both lost vapor (less efficient) AND it makes eventual cleaning a requirement.

Why do I see little or no vapor when I exhale?

Any vapor that is visible on exhale is wasted, therefore, by definition any device that produces visible vapor on exhale is categorically less efficient than one that does not. As such then, the ideal vapor density is exactly that which can be adsorbed by the lungs in a natural/comfortable interval of time -- usually between 3 to 5 seconds. As long as one breathes deeply, lungs are fairly efficient at adsorption (for most people, better than 95% uptake in 5 seconds); however, there is a limit, and vapor densities higher than that simply do not achieve as much for the volume of materials consumed.

Given the choice between having something look good vs building something that actually works, Magic-Flight definitely prefer the "works" option. Having visible vapor is also particularly a disadvantage if one is trying to be stealthy. Further, visibility is especially bad since it also implies higher levels of smell as well -- even less stealthy, and in a worse way. Magic-Flight finds it especially ironic to find people asking if the Box can produce visible vapor on exhale -- as if that were a good thing! Magic-Flight worked hard to optimize the Box to make it easy to deliver results without that sort of ephemera.

Also, the degree of visibility of vapor is also dependent on how hot the material was heated (i.e., which components are extracted and/or created). Hotter might create more visibility, but this is also not always a good thing since it usually implies either some degree of free condensation (mist) and/or the creation of particulate matter (smoke) -- both of which are bad. True vapor is like a gaseous solution -- it should be clear, and therefore invisible. People who speak of seeing a "milky white vapor" are actually talking about a mist that shares space with a vapor -- a result of changes in temperature more than anything else (like fog at night).

If my herb turns black, it means I'm combusting right?

Not necessarily -- "combustion" generally implies a self-sustained oxidization reaction, whereas "blackening" merely indicates that a number of the more complex molecules have been broken down -- "reduced" to carbon. For example, it is possible to blacken nearly any organic materials in the complete absence of oxygen -- a clear distinction/demonstration that combustion is definitely not required for blacking -- i.e., the terms/events are identifiably distinct. You will know for sure when combustion occurs because it always results in ash -- generally a gray powdery residue.

However, blackening is not really that desirable either, for it indicates that at least potentially some of the medicinal ingredients have been overheated, reducing them to less useful compounds -- i.e. that less than optimal efficiency has been obtained. Usually, it is recommended that frequent stirring between draws be used to prevent blackening, particularly as it improves the overall taste.

If herb is blackened, does that mean tars or carcinogens were released?

This is a good question, and hard to answer without more specific research. Based as much on intuition and indirect reading as on anything measured directly, it seems the chances of such are significant -- that there are more likely to be more tars, if not also some level of increased chance of more harmful compounds released if any herbal material is heated to the point of significant blackening. However, the real question is "does it matter" -- i.e., is this increased chance significant enough to be concerned about?

To make this more explicit, it would be necessary to be much more specific about a) what constitutes a "tar" and b) would it be considered potentially harmful to health. For example, the vapor itself could by most professional (chemical) definitions be classified as a "tar", and some people (more politically motivated) would also list it as "harmful to health" (most people (hopefully) know better). Thus, it becomes a matter of which polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons and associated isomers are likely to occur and in what proportions as a result of any given level of overheating. As such, the overall question gets very complex very fast and admits of no simple interpretation other than the fairly obvious "significant overheating of herbal materials is generally bad".

As such, the best that can be realistically offered at this point is an unjustified opinion: as long as you do not heat herbs beyond the point at which more than about 15% of the load becomes darker than dark chocolate brown, there is no cause or justification for worry. Beyond this, it is *probably* the case that even heating about 1/4 of a load nearly full black will have no detectable long term health effects as long as you are not doing so multiple times every single day for weeks at a time. It is also certain that even if you were to vaporize to these far limits, it is overall significantly less harmful than any type of smoking, including and especially that involving any amount of water filtration.

Furthermore and finally, as many people reading this are likely to already know, hundreds of politically minded groups have pressured many more scientists to find and publish any possible research supporting any connection whatsoever between smoking various popular herbs and any measurable/functional health defect or decline. Given such consistent efforts over the last several decades, the failure of any one of these very motivated and well-funded groups to widely and dramatically publish any significant or well justified evidence, we suggest that it is safe to assume/believe that no such connection exists. Therefore, for anyone to spend any amount of time worrying about the possibility of harmful effects associated with occasionally somewhat overheating some 120 milligrams (max) of herb, given all of this, is probably unnecessary -- with a Launch Box vaporizer you are probably as safe as it is possible to be.

How well does the Launch Box® perform in the cold, such as on ski slopes?

The biggest potential problem in cold (below freezing) temperatures is loss of battery power. All batteries perform less effectively when they get cold. If the batteries are kept reasonably warm, e.g. in an inside pocket next to your body, the Box will work just fine. The FC member bluntfaced posted a review which said, in part:

As far as using the unit at high altitude, it rules. I've used it on chairlifts and gondolas many times as well as in lodges at the tops of mountains. It works great in the wind as well. The only problem with the cold is it seems to shorten the life of the batteries ever-so-slightly. I kept my battery case and box in another soft case under my main ski pants and against my leg to keep them from getting too cold. This seems to work very well. The only time I had problems was when it was snowing really hard. Snow accumulates on the box and melts. I only used it once in these conditions then decided it wasn't worth it. As far as wind goes the box is the ultimate solution as it does not depend on a lighter.